17 February 2011
The weather is dry and sunny and we drive to Worcestershire to pick up the Land Rover. We are slightly delayed as the alarm clock battery failed overnight, and by the time we arrive the hauliers have already loaded the rolling chassis onto their trailer. The owner, Dave, had temporarily fitted the drive shaft so that the hand brake would be effective, and he also locked the free wheeling hubs. With straps on the trailer it should be very secure.
We all help finish packing the various body parts into their Mercedes Sprinter van. Pay Dave his cash, sign the forms, get a receipt and we're off. Refuel at the nearby motorway services and quickly catch up with the hauliers, only to lose them as they exit for the Gordano services at Bristol.
Once home the hauliers soon arrive, and we unload the Land Rover parts onto the drive. They help wheel the chassis into the garage and on their departure we leisurely pack all the components into the garage in what appears to us to be a logical and tidy fashion. Take a few photos to mark the occasion and email to various parties. It's also Keith's birthday and retirement day, so call and have a chat.
Log into the Shiply site and leave positive feedback for Ray - they were helpful, prompt, friendly, polite, hard-working and careful - couldn't ask for better.
That's it for today. However current thoughts are:
1. Ray, the driver, suggested injecting Waxoyl or Dinitrol into the chassis to keep damp out and extend its life. Will discuss this with Brian Chant of the classic vehicle restorers Unicorn Motor Company of Stalbridge.
2. Ray also talked about a tool for flaring the ends of brake pipes. Need one!
3. Dave provided a second-hand (of unknown working status) brake servo. To use this a different master cylinder would be required. As brakes are one of the first things on my list, this will need to be investigated. . . as will dual circuit brakes. . . .
4. . . . also the idea of fitting a high ratio transfer case to cut down on noise and improve economy.
5. The bulkhead is by the garage door ready to be inspected by Brian Chant. It has significant corrosion on the upper edge and both foot wells.
6. The vehicle came with a Service & Repair Manual, but I'd like a 'clean' version of the manual for reading/reviewing indoors, plus the Series III Repair and Operation Manual. These should cover everything necessary, so they are now on my Amazon wish-list. (Already have the parts catalogue as a PDF file, and a soft back copy is ordered).
7. Stainless steel fittings are worth a look. Found a reasonably priced eBay seller that was recommended.
18 February 2011
Sort out the various boxes of bits. Separate the soft parts from metal components, and move breakable items (like the instrument panel) onto the table. Also identify spare/duplicate items and store these separately. All the brake components now on the work bench, to see what there is and to work out brake options.
Call Brian Chant of Unicorn, and he pops round 20 minutes later for a chat. The upshot is that he will take the bulkhead to his works and replace the rusty parts. His neighbouring firm carries out paint work and Brian will talk to them about shot blasting and painting the finished bulkhead. An additive can be used to provide a more matt finish, so that the rest of the body work does not have to be re-sprayed to match. Also Brian's Polish assistant will come and waxoyl the chassis insides, using a portable pressure system.
19 February 2011
Spend some hours removing as many fittings as possible from the bulkhead, prior to its refurbishment. The rust is worse than originally thought, so hope Brian will be able to restore it to a useable state.
Receive an email from Ashcroft Engineering confirming my order for a high ratio transfer case. Quickly replied to say I had not actually ordered one, but need to know delivery charges and further details on fitting procedures.
Had another look at the brakes - hadn't realised that one rear and one front brake cylinder have already been installed, and the two boxes of Bearmach brake shoes, fittings and cylinders are for both axles (assuming 10 inch drums are retained all round). Now trying to sort out what is required to convert to a dual circuit braking system. . . .
20 February 2011
Finish removing fittings from the bulkhead, and drill out the rivets holding the rubber trim. Take a photograph of the bulkhead next to the two repair footwells. The top rail and side rails are also corroded and need remedial work.
21 February 2011
Quiet day today. Order a kit for cutting, bending and flaring brake pipes. Also order a pair of 3 tonne axle stands ready for work on the brakes. These cost £11.02, including postage, and as they weigh 7kgs it's hard to see how Amazon are making much profit on these.
Call Brian Chant and arrange for the bulkhead to be picked up tomorrow.
22 February 2011
Brian collected the bulkhead this morning. Hopefully next time I see it there will be a transformation. He introduces me to Mariusz, who will waxoyl the insides of the chassis members.
Now awaiting the axle stands, so that work can start on the brakes, and the Parts Manual so that replacement bulkhead fittings can be ordered.
26 February 2011
Order now placed with Craddocks for initial bulkhead fittings. Also the axle stands arrived yesterday, so today the rear end was jacked up onto the stands. The right hand rear wheel and brake drum were removed to see what has already been done, and all looks in order. The left hand rear wheel is then removed, showing bare back plate awaiting brake fittings. Filed the rear hole slightly and fitted the brake adjustment mechanism. The splined shaft had to be greased, so care required to prevent contamination of other brake parts.
Next to fit is the brake slave cylinder. However the new part does not include the fixing nuts, and suitable parts could not be found in the boxes that came with the Land Rover nor my own collection. Tried to source them locally to no avail, so ordered online, together with the tub braces to economise on postage.
28 February 2011
Check oil filter, and pleased to see there is a brand new one there. Must remember to add engine oil before I eventually start her up!
Touch up various chassis areas where paint was missing, such as the front cross member where the winch hook had dug in. Also an extra coat on the battery box, as these always suffer. The paint used is Hammerite Smooth, and there is much debate in Land Rover blogs and websites about the best way to rust and stone protect a chassis. The most common complaint about Hammerite is that it sets hard, and can flake off a chassis as it flexes. Also there may be problems with overpainting it. However as this is the paint that was already used I used the same product and will see for myself how it fares.
Delivery from Craddocks arrived today, and all seems in order. However need to wait for the next delivery before I can continue with the rear brakes.
1 March 2011
Upholstery today. Look to see what we have, and find a confusing mixture of front seats and fold up rear seats, all of varying condition. Identify the complete and acceptable seats, and stow on shelves. These appear to comprise one complete outside front seat and half of another. (Not bothered about centre seat, as do not intend fitting one). Remove a cover from one sound seat and remove the fittings from all the damaged ones, to enable any later cannibalisation required.
17 March 2011
Back on the case, after a period first of cold weather and then of a family week around my birthday.
Visit Brian to see progress on the bulkhead and discuss the next steps. (Side-tracked by looking at a very nice Morris Traveller that they are currently working on, featuring some of the best wood coachwork you could ever hope to see). Mariusz has done a good job welding in the new footwell repair sections, and re-fabricating the steel flanges for the top rail (windscreen edge) and side rails, all of which had been severely corroded. Very pleased with the work they have done. We had originally agreed that it would now be shot blasted, but after discussion we have now arranged for Brian to remove remaining surface rust with a compressed air powered abrader, and to apply rust proof paint and top coat. This may take a couple of weeks, as Brian will be heavily involved with the DVCA Vintage & Classic auction at the Gartell Railway on March 24.
On the rebuild front, jacked up the passenger side and took off the front wheel and drum. This had a brake cylinder fitted, but no brakes shoes. Removed the cylinder and transferred to the rear wheel, and then fitted the rear shoes. Cleaned up the rear drum, which was very dirty, but then decided to use the front drum instead, as this is cleaner and less pitted. (The front wheels will be converted to 11 inch drums/brakes, in line with the beefed up post-1980 specification that I have decided to follow).
18 March 2011
Place an online order with lrseries. com for front brake parts.
This will allow the conversion from a 10 inch single leading shoe (SLS) set up to a 11 inch twin leading shoes (TLS) configuration as found in post 1980 Series IIIs.
This still leaves the purchase of a servo, master cylinder, and various brake lines & fittings, but helps to spread the cost while the front brakes are upgraded (and hopefully some cost will be defrayed by selling no longer needed brake components).
23 March 2011
Replace drum and wheel on rear passenger hub, after a bit of persuasion. The shoes still slightly bind, but hopefully they'll free up in after use. Remove freewheel hub cover, and remove unit. Looks well greased. The castle nut and cotter pin are now exposed, ready for the next stage of removing the half shaft to access the brake anchor plate.
25 March 2011
Have coffee with John Edwards at number 7. Unfortunately a parts delivery arrives without me noticing, and it has now gone back to the depot in Somerton.
In the afternoon remove the castle nut (with cotter pin) and 6 bolts holding rest of freewheel hub housing. Flatten the edge of the locking washer and remove outer locknut, inner locknut and then the thrust washer. Withdraw hub, holding the inner roller bearing in place - just 3 pairs of bolts and locking straps and the backplate is removed.
Now need to wait for a replacement 11" plate, and then will fit brakes and re-assemble the stub axle components.
26 March 2011
Sam's birthday today, and we speak on the phone.
Here at home it was a day of mixed fortune. Went to the depot at Somerton to pick up a very heavy package - the new 11" drums are very weighty. The delivery contains a mixture of new (brake drums, shoes & cylinders), used (oil catchers) and re-conditioned (backplates). So far so good, and it seems a good time to build up the new brakes onto the backplate on the bench, before transferring to the stub axle.
After over an hour fiddling around, it dawns that the new shoe springs may not be correct, and a quick check online shows that the wrong parts have been delivered. So much for re-building both sets of front brakes this weekend. Re-order the offending springs online, together with various other odds and ends, and now have to wait to next week before the correct parts arrive.
29 March 2011
Much excitement as a parcel arrives, to be dashed shortly after when the new springs turn out to be identical to the last set! After much poring over photos on the web finally determine that these are indeed the correct ones after all. Well that's wasted a few days and pounds, although they'll find their way onto eBay one day.
Decide to fit the anchor plate on the axle, as this will allow more leverage to re-fit the shoes. Once the location of the springs is identified, and the spring end coaxed in, the shoes are remarkably easy to fit. The problems often described are probably due to the presence of the hub assembly, which would normally get in the way but which in my case I removed.
The anchor plates are to be torqued up later, and the locking washers bent into place, but relief that all is well.
Brian calls in the evening to say that the bulkhead is now complete, and that Mariusz can come and deliver it tomorrow and also waxoyl inside the chassis.
30 March 2011
Mariusz arrives after lunch, as arranged. The bulkhead is now refurbished and re-painted, and looks almost as good as new - the finish of the paintwork is excellent and there is no sign of the previous corrosion damage, so well done Brian and Mariusz! Mariusz sets to with the portable compressor and Waxoyl, and soon has the inside of all accessible chassis members sprayed - not as noisy or smelly as I expected.
Have another look at the manuals to sort out post- and pre- 1980 differences. The latter version has oil catchers, bevelled bearings, and modified half shaft (presumably to accommodate one or other of those other changes). Decide not to fit the oil catchers, as this may need the updated stub axles and may lead to other complications (so they'll be eBayed along with other 'left overs').
7 April 2011
Lovely sunny day today, and decide to install the bulkhead. Linda and I lift it onto the chassis, over the gear lever and adjacent to where it should be located - the clutch hydraulics slightly block access, but this is soon resolved. The driver side mounting bolt is tapped home, but unfortunately the passenger side cannot be fixed, as the bulkhead is slightly too narrow - the replacement footwells may have been marginally smaller than the originals. This calls for some lateral thinking - use the car scissor jack between the chassis and bulkhead upright to try and stretch it, which closes the gap slightly but still not enough. Second course of action is to raise the bulkhead, place a length of wood between the upright and chassis and then lower it such that the wood levers the upright out - first attempt to no avail but a second attempt using a washer in addition to the wood works a treat.
Bulkhead is now in place, albeit not yet fully tightened nor the engine support brackets fixed - however this is a key stage as now the brake, wiring and steering systems can all be installed and tested before the remaining body panels need looking at.
10 April 2011
Time to try out my new torque wrench, so test out on a bolt held in the vice to make sure it appears to work OK - which it does. Torque up the bolts for the brake anchor plate and bend over the locking washers, then re-fit the hub followed by the thrust washer and inner adjusting nut. Some oil now poured into the swivel housing, to ensure that the seals are sound before progressing further with the hub. As the filler hole is half way up the housing facing horizontally outwards I found a length of tubing and duct-taped it to a plastic funnel for use in filling.
The manual provides instructions for using a dial gauge to allow the hub adjusting nut to be tightened to provide a specified end float, and a Land Rover technical note provides an alternative approach based on torque settings - however this is a large nut (2") and I have no socket of that size, nor do I have a dial gauge. Examining various forums, the perceived wisdom is that the end float can be achieved manually using experience to judge the end play when moving the wheel held at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions - although how one acquires this experience is unclear. Another approach in one Land Rover forum is far simpler, which is to tighten the nut using a box spanner and greasy hands only (ie no bar) - and as I was provided with such a spanner this is the approach I adopted (hope my hands were greasy enough!).
Fitting the new 11" drum was rather problematic, as it would not fit over the new brake shoes - however returning to the garage after tea I realised that one of the shoes was located too close to the brake plate, and after being prising out slightly it moved inwards sufficiently to clear the drum. The front passenger wheel is now back on, and assuming no leaks occur overnight the next stage is to repeat this exercise on the driver's side.
11 April 2011
No leaks from yesterday, so complete the front passenger wheel by re-installing the free wheel assembly.
Jack the front of the vehicle up, (so that the wheels can be turned, for ease of access) and remove driver's front wheel - then remember that to remove free wheel hub and the drive shaft castle nut both front wheels should be on the ground, and the opposing hub set to 4 wheel drive - this done and the hub is soon dissembled.
Remove old 10" brake back plate and replace with the new (re-conditioned) 11" plate, adding a small dab of Kurust where some rust is exposed.
Next step is to fit the brake cylinders and shoes, which need clean hands and will wait for the next session.
12 April 2011
Continue on the driver's side front wheel - fit the new 11" back plate, brake cylinders and brake shoes, and re-fit the hub.
Next steps are to lubricate the swivel housing and re-fit the free-wheel assembly.
27 April 2011
Front driver's wheel now complete, apart from lubricating the swivel housing.
Move front brake cylinder to rear wheel as planned, re-fit rear wheel and re-connect brake pipe.
Loose fit the passenger side bulkhead bracket and also the driver side bracket which is already connected to the steering box and column - everything looks like it should fit OK, although will need to order some more 4 inch chassis bolts for the brackets, as I only appear to have 3.
The loose fit demonstrates that the brake and clutch pedal boxes will need to be fitted before the steering unit - already have the items required apart from potentially some gaskets, which can probably be made up as they seem improbably expensive online.
Finally the repair section in the bulkhead has two slots for the brake and clutch pedals, and it looks like the brake slot may need to be extended for this particular (ie later) pedal box, but will investigate later.
4 May 2011
Finish sorting out parts - mark all ordered parts in parts book to make clear what is ordered and what is already held - it's complicated by the fact that many items are superseded by replacements with different reference numbers.
Also create a different storage box for all components that will not be required (or were ordered in error !) to avoid clutter and to help when ebaying surplus after the rebuild.
Confirm that the brake pedal slot in the bulkhead footwell will need to be lengthened, and also that gasket sealant can be used to seal the boxes (as the gaskets are too expensive to buy for some reason).
Try to make sense of brake light switch, but there is no connection on the servo and the parts manual specifies a plate with no provision for the switch unit - will buy a switch and then work out the best location for it.
8 May 2011
Show Land Rover to John & Denise, before they leave after a weekend stay with us - John seems taken aback by the work that needs to be done!
Take a photograph of the steering column unit that was loose fitted last time - final fitting should present no problems although the right hand bracket has a mounting hole that does not match any in the footwell.
Remove the steering unit and test fit the clutch pedal box and master cylinder - again no problems envisaged.
Mark out the area of footwell where the brake pedal will travel, as the slot needs to be extended - the original slot is sized for the non-servo pedal box, which has a slightly different design
9 May 2011
Use hacksaw blade to cut section out of footwell for brake pedal box - a number of blades in fact, as there was insufficient space for a hacksaw frame, so used as a padsaw and accepted the inevitable breakages due to excessive flexing.
Test fit the clutch and brake pedal boxes and the steering assembly, to ensure no nasty surprises await - all looks OK, although will need a few packing pieces for the right hand bracket.
The new slot now needs to be filed smooth and painted to prevent rusting, and then the boxes can be refitted, hopefully as final, with the nice new shiny set screws and penny washers that I ordered on eBay
8 June 2011
Back into the garage after a spell away for our Venice holiday and other interruptions.
Today's tasks are to prepare and insert the front ventilator seals (a largely cosmetic exercise) and to fit the two ball joints onto the steering (longitudinal) track rod - the rod that links the steering box to the lever that actually operates the steering (rather more important exercise). The ball joints are paired, one with a right hand thread and one with a left hand - and both are equally unwilling to come free from the track rod, despite increasingly robust action. The left-hand joint eventually comes free, after the application of both lubricating oil and elbow grease, however the other joint remains obstinately in place.
The track rod has now been left overnight with more oil applied, and will hopefully be more willing next time. The time spent on this prevented the grille seals from being fitted, however they are now cleaned up and ready - the rubber is slightly perished but the part is now longer made and the replacements are less satisfactory than using my originals.
10 June 2011
Battle resumes on the steering track rod tube using a hefty pipe wrench. No joy at all until a change of tack, with the joint tightened instead, at which point the seal yields and a quick reversal of the wrench sees the track rod end sheepishly leave its home. Clean the track rod using steel wool and white spirit and then give a lick of black Hammerite, with the tube ignominiously mounted on an old garden cane in the vice.
Attention now moves to the rubber grille seals, and the Evostick tin is opened. This is the stuff that Dad & I used to use 40-50 years or so ago, however either the formula has changed or my memory plays tricks - a bit of both probably. I remember the glue having a slightly stringy composition, which it no longer does; however it is still definitely an impact glue, and the first attempt (passenger side) fails as there is insufficient flexibility for bedding in the seal. This experience helps with the driver's side seal, as more care is taken in exactly locating the seal before mating it with the bulkhead. The second seal awaits tomorrow, as does the second coat of the track rod tube.
The final job today is to remove the loosely fitted clutch and brake pedal boxes and steering box. The brake slot enlarged earlier is now filed down and masking tape applied to allow Hammerite sealing tomorrow. Some unused roofing felt is also located, and this will be used as a gasket for the pedal boxes.
11 June 2011
Paint a second coat of Hammerite on the track rod tube and when touch dry loosely screw in the two new track rod ends - a big improvement.
Evostick the second rubber seal (passenger side) in place, an easier job after the successful driver's side job.
Add first coat of Hammerite to brake pedal slot, where metal was filed down last time.
Make up a gasket out of roofing felt for the brake pedal box, and bolt to the bulkhead, after first fabricating a bracket for the upper end of the pedal return spring.
12 June 2011
Apply second coat of paint to pedal box slot this morning.
In afternoon make up a proprietary roofing felt gasket for the brake pedal box and install the box.
Clean the upper steering column brackets with white spirit and steel wool and apply first coat of Hammerite. The seals that fit between the steering column and the bulkhead no longer appear available, so will probably also fabricate these with the trusty roofing felt. Will also need to ensure that the pedal boxes do not obstruct anything else that is mounted to the bulkhead in that area, such as throttle linkage, as am hoping these are in their final fitting
17 June 2011
Back today from mini-break at Fladbury Mill.
Give steering column fittings first coat of paint on other side.
Get out the various throttle linkage parts and start refurbishing with steel wool - as these were removed by me previously I have the luxury of referring to my original bulkhead photos to remind myself exactly how these were fitted.
18 June 2011
Finish cleaning up all throttle linkage parts, and examine the return spring - looks fine after cleaning and will not need replacing.
Start to Hammerite the parts, including a trial paint dip of the throttle pedal ends, which may or may not be successful depending on the thickness of paint that ended up on it.
29 June 2011
Finally completed 2 coats of Hammerite on each main throttle linkage part.
One small part is missing, which secures a control rod to one of the actuating levers, and this is now ordered from The Land Rover Centre, a firm not used before but which usefully has no minimum order penalty.
The bell crank mechanism that attaches to the carburettor was eventually found - it had been overlooked before as it appeared over-engineered for the job in hand.
Took a photo of all refurbished components prior to fitting.
1 July 2011
By good timing the control rod clip arrived by post today - not new as expected but a quite suitable used alternative.
Loose fit all components from accelerator pedal through to the carburettor, although the exact alignment of the levers will need to be reviewed - the final operating lever is not directly below the carburettor arm, which looks odd, and the lever may need to be cantilevered out a little more.
Also the bell crank is a loose fit at the carburettor end - this may be because it is misaligned, or may be why there is a strand of wire on it, which may have been used to tighten the connection.
Finally, at some point a stop will need to be located under the throttle pedal, however the hole that looks like it should hold this is not directly underneath, so further tweaking may be required.
21 July 2011
Some successes and one frustration to report.
On the positive side, the throttle linkage is all in place and bolted up tight, although as noted the bell crank disconnects under load and will need to be replaced at some time. The steering system is now all in place, requiring two holes to be drilled into the repair section of the bulkhead, and various packing pieces to be inserted. The steering wheel is now loosely in place, both to protect against injury on the exposed steering shaft and also to ensure the wheels now actually turn, now that the track rod tube is bolted on at the tie ends. Steering appears OK, but an adjustment needs to be made at the steering box, and also later toe-in and tracking will need checking - probably will be fine tuned at the MoT garage, where they'll have better tools for this.
Both pedal boxes now bolted firmly in place, and clutch pipe is cleaned and connected to the flexible union, so that on checking for tightness it will be able to be filled with fluid, bled and tested. Finally three second-hand gear knobs were acquired on eBay - not necessary at this stage, but it has a psychological benefit.
And as for the frustration, this relates to the new brake servo, the problem being that the clevis pin connecting it to the brake pedal does not fit into the actuating arm hole. A call to Craddocks confirms that there is only one clevis pin listed, and that the STC1816 servo supersedes all others and is compatible - they suggest showing the parts to a local Land Rover dealer for their view. However have just noted that the servo has a label JM-99063, which differs from the proper part number and for which there appears to be no mention on the Internet, so a return phone will be made tomorrow, before bothering Land Rover.
24 July 2011
Decided that not having a compatible brake servo and clevis pin should be a problem for the supplier, and not me, so returned both items on Friday with a request to provide a matching set - we'll see what happens.
In the mean time, take a look at the brake switch and work out how it's meant to operate, although will not fit until the servo is in place, to allow sufficient visibility of the pedal box interior.
We're off to Cornwall for a short break next week, and hopefully there'll be a response from Craddocks re the servo by our return
26 July 2011
Had just finished emailing Craddocks to advise of the returned servo, when the postman comes bearing a returned servo and clevis pin - congratulations to Craddocks for a fast turnaround.
Servo is now fitted, as is the brake warning light switch and the brake master cylinder.
The servo vacuum hose is lightly fitted, however the lie would be better if the servo were inverted such that the pipe union exits the lower end.
The inlet manifold connector also needs consideration, as there are three pipes, one for the servo and one for the distributor advance-retard, leaving another of unknown purpose, and which is now temporarily blanked off.
14 August 2011
And now the focus moves to wiring.
Have already ordered online the necessary cable for the chassis loom, costing a measly £14. The old and tired chassis loom has now been removed, and replaced by a nylon cord so that when ready the replacement can be re-threaded through the chassis. Coincidentally eBay had a new engine loom listed, but this went for over £100 - although less than half of list price it would be more cost-effective to renovate the existing one.
Finally remove ignition lock barrel and replace with new one - not strictly required yet!
16 August 2011
Decide that as wiring is now on the agenda, the fascia will need to be sorted out so that the dashboard connections can be made. Sort out the various components, after finding out that some are duplicates, and then refurbish the top fascia support panel which was very rusty. This involves steel wool and the electric drill circular wire brush attachment. The internal surface is then treated with two coats of paint from an old can of Hammerite - it's enamel effect copper, which looks odd but is for protective purposes and will not show.
Also today the cabling order arrives, so insert the 4 cables into the corrugated protective sleeve and use the nylon cord to pull the whole shebang through the holes in the chassis member.
18 August 2011
Paint underside (ie visible) surface of top fascia support panel with generous coat of Hammerite.
Brush clean and then rivet the two flyscreens into place, first having drilled the top two holes each side (bulkhead refurbishment must have lost these) and also lightly greasing front surfaces to help prevent bimetallic corrosion.
24 August 2011
Have changed plans again, after having re-read some Land Rover blogs and forums.
It seems that the rear tub is bolted to a fixed position, so that any adjustment required for door lines is effected through alignment of the bulkhead. This cannot be achieved as easily if the wiring and fascias are installed, as access may be required to the upper steering bolts. The new plan is therefore to complete those jobs required before tub fitment (eg replace rear propshaft and install brake pipes), and then to refurbish and fit the tub. This will have the added advantage of clearing more space on the garage floor.
Required parts have therefore been ordered from LRDirect, and work started on the front brake lines - unfortunately this meant re-positioning the anchor plates to allow space for the connector pipe linking the two brake cylinders, and more unfortunately as the front left wheel swivel unit had been filled with oil this promptly discharged over the garage floor.
26 August 2011
Completed the realignment of the front passenger brake anchor plate. As this is now an 11 inch twin leading shoe instead of the original 10 inch single leading shoe, there are now 2 cylinders that need to be connected by a short brake pipe close to the swivel joint housing, and the realignment is required to ensure this pipe does not foul obstructions such as the oil filler. Due to the complexity of this piece, a preformed one was used - the pipe that leads from a brake cylinder to the flexible hose will be simpler to fabricate.
The two windscreen wiper wheel boxes have been taken apart and cleaned up, and the back plates bolted in place. The motor is now also in place, with the wiper drive cable loosely fitted, awaiting arrival of a replacement tube to replace the corroded one.
The rear tub has now been moved forward in the garage with a view to replacing the underside support crossmembers. These appear to be fixed with some sort of rivet, and having cold chiselled off the head of one of these the next step will be to drill it out and then continue with the remaining 11. A decision will then be required on how best to replace these, as the other end of the rivets appear to be covered by the tub floor panel.
28 August 2011
The rivets securing the three rusty cross members are drilled out today, and the parts removed. This shows that two of the central longitudinal aluminium members are corroded at the rear cross member. Unfortunately these are not available separately, but are part of the no longer available rear body floor, copies of which go for around £170. The floor is basically sound and the plan is to cover it with a rubber mat, so replacement is not viable. The parts will therefore be patched up, according to how they look on closer inspection. A good clean up of aluminium swarf, rust and dust is now called for, as indicated on the photo.
4 September 2011
Clean up underside of the tub and cut out the corroded sections of the strengthening members.
Cut replacement lengths of ¾ inch square 16 SWG aluminium tube and position them loosely in place.
The underside of the tub has a few areas of bi-metallic corrosion which need to be cleaned up further and treated - that will be the next job on return from our Campervan holiday.
2 October 2011
Well both the Cornwall and Shropshire holidays are over, the sun is shining, and it's time for action.
The order from LR Direct eventually came after a wait of 1 month, having been delayed due to a part awaited from Land Rover themselves - order was finally released with remaining item on back order. Unfortunately the wiper tube that links the two wheelboxes is incorrectly annotated in the parts manual and the tube received is too short. As no appropriate tube can be found via Google decide to refurbish the old one - had not wanted to as replacement was so cheap, but have now cleaned it up satisfactorily. The wiper mechanism is now fully installed - the wiper motor, both wheelboxes (cleaned and copiously greased), interconnecting and end tubes. Now need to test it somehow. . .
3 October 2011
Looking at yesterday's photos it was clear that one of the wheelbox backplates was wrongly fitted - the boxes are orientated at 180° to each other (as the blades park inwards and sweep outwards from each other) but the backplates were the same orientation as each other.
Also fitted the 3 replacement sections under the tub, riveting aluminium box sections within the top hat section strengtheners thereby holding the larger (visible) box section tubes in place.
24 November 2011
Much time has passed developing websites and general village activities.
However today we had a trip down to Bridport to collect the 4 Bridgestone Dueler HT 689 tyres I won for £82 on eBay - found them in great condition, as they only had delivery mileage on them.
Earlier this month also won 4 wheels for £1.02, although paid the seller £10 out of sympathy on collection from Exeter hospital - two of the wheels had been shot blasted and primed, the remaining two still require attention.
These wheels and tyres complete what was expected to be the final and significant purchase.
According to Michelin's website, tyres should be stored indoors in a cool, dry, clean environment away from the light and preferably placed vertically on racks raised at least 4 inches above floor level, slightly rotated once a month to avoid distortion - will have to see about that!
29 May 2012
The (much) warmer weather is now with us - winter saw the new tyres being rotated from time to time, but nothing else.
Today the wiring refurbishment begins, which involves cleaning the existing cables, end to end testing, labelling and identifying any replacement sections required.
Searching for the purpose of a white/yellow wire not specified in the manual a very useful coloured wiring diagram (see below) was found and which will be used from now. So far 3 damaged wires have been identified and will need replacement, and the choke switch has a section snapped off - goodness knows if it still works, or even how to test it. Apparently it fits onto the choke cable, but unless a cheap replacement is found on eBay the switch will be replaced as is. All good fun and the main wiring loom has yet to be checked.
10 July 2013
Manhandle tub into garden with Linda to take advantage of the long warm dry days we're getting - it needs a complete clean up. Have found out from the Internet how it attaches - there are 4 bolt holes at the front and 10 at the rear, while the cross members only rest with their rubber buffers on the chassis when the tub is loaded.
Remove the old threshold bar and perished rubber seals on rear doorway, which requires drilling out some of the rivets. Remove old light units as these will be replaced for reliability. Steel wool the tub underside to remove areas of aluminium/steel corrosion - these will be more thoroughly cleaned with a wire brush drill attachment and painted with a protective film.
12 July 2013
Hot weather continues, so use wire brush on electric drill to clean up the underside of the tub and to wake up the neighbours. This is followed by application by brush of the Tetra Schutz underseal - a very fumy and potentially nasty concoction best used outside. It is bitumen based, with the potential to trap water when damaged, but the tub is aluminium and therefore rust free.
16 July 2013
Hot weather continues, so have proceeded further with the tub - the cross members are now riveted and bolted on to the tub and the rubbers (that will rest on the chassis) are also riveted on. This required the use of a lazy tong rivet gun which has the capacity for 6mm wide rivets - it is also a lot easier to use and disgorges the empty shafts a lot better than the old ones.
The rear propshaft is now lubricated and fitted - the grease gun hadn't been used for many years and had been left under pressure, so that the grease had compacted into a semi-solid gel that required the gun to be stripped down and cleaned.
The cowling that covers the fuel filler pipe is now removed and the fuel filler neck hose disconnected - it was probably serviceable but a new one has been obtained as the fuel tank lies under the driver's seat and there is therefore sufficient motivation to ensure all the fuel fittings are robust.
Finally back plates were made up to strengthen the tub edges where they bolt onto the chassis points, and this required using some of Dad's old drill bits as mine were not man enough for the task (after overheating the stainless steel bar by drilling too fast and inadvertently locally hardening it!)
24 July 2013
Well the heat wave has broken, but it is still pleasantly warm - however the tub was moved into the garage to avoid last night's rain fall.
The 2mm thick aluminium chequer plate arrived with all 4 corners bent, although this was corrected to an acceptable standard courtesy of one hammer - the plate is now bolted to the floor of the tub, which together with the original floor (holed in parts) provides a solid base.
Another slathering of underseal was applied to provide further protection from the elements.
The rear brake pipes are now fixed to the axle using special pipe grips which fit to plastic ties, such that the pipes should not move around or rub against metal body work.
There are a few more tasks before I can fit the tub, namely ensuring the wiring will reach the lights, fitting a brake pipe to the rear flexible hose and ensuring that the rear diff is lubricated (EP80/90).
25 July 2013
Check the rear wiring and adjust lengths front and rear accordingly, then seal rear chassis cable hole with grommet - fit blind grommets to remainder of holes on top surface of rear chassis, leaving the rest open for drainage/ventilation.
Check rear diff (Rover version) and confirm it has correct level of oil.
With Linda's help up-end the rear tub ready for tidying up the seat box end of the tub - requires a general clean, removal of old mastic and clearing rust from the two captives nuts on the tub fixing nearest the fuel tank - also notice that filler cap has no rubber seal, so order one on eBay
26 July 2013
Clean up seat box end of tub, especially the rusted captive bolt plate which also has anti-rust solution applied.
Manhandle tub to end of the vehicle, tilt one end on one tool box and then jack up other end onto the other tool box. Protect chassis and lugs with wood and thick cloth and then tilt tub over onto chassis - it is now resting on the chassis in a raised position and slightly further back to allow completion of the outstanding rear brake line work.
27 July 2013
Brake pipe flaring kit comes today, so decide to sort out brake piping, especially single vs double flaring and metric vs UNF sizes. It appears that male (convex) connections are single flares and female (concave) are double - single flares just use the flaring die whereas a double flare uses a second flare using the cone only to double the flare back on itself.
Practice both using the new tool.
Regarding thread types, an imperial rear hose fits flush to the connector on the diff, with a copper washer in between (my case) whereas metric fittings would show exposed thread. To ensure metric and UNF aren't mixed (easily done apparently) order some 3/8" x 24tpi UNF nuts rather than risk the ones I inherited.
4 August 2013
Make up a length of brake pipe running from rear flexible hose through to engine bay - rear end threaded tight using new UNF nut and the front end flared and with a second nut for a brake pipe connector (on order), from which pipe will lead to master cylinder.
The pipe run copies the layout found on some pictures of a restoration found on the Internet.
Slide rear tub forward and then with Linda's assistance lift it into final position (subject to packing pieces as required).
Finally jiggle fuel filler pipe onto fuel tank and tighten clamp.
5 August 2013
Bolt rear of tub to chassis, using strengthening plates made from stainless steel at the back to even the load - awkward to reach to fit and tighten the underside nuts, but all done.
Then bolt down front of tub to chassis using a number of packing pieces - fits with captive nuts on the fuel tank side and another handmade strengthening plate on the passenger side.
Use a piece of string as first test that coach line is straight (and hence doors will hang true) and so far looks good.
6 August 2013
To help ensure bulkhead is aligned properly decide to fit windscreen, side panels and roof.
Clean up windscreen and fit, then clean up both side windows and fit, de-rusting fittings as necessary.
Start work on refurbishing the roof - remove old polystyrene tiles and Linda starts to scrape away the old adhesive, as it's probably best to do this all before fitting.
The second windscreen that came with the original purchase is surplus and can now be eBayed.
7 August 2013
Busy on two fronts today - Linda spends many hours scraping the old polystyrene tile cement off the roof ceiling and then scrubbing it to a state it hasn't seen for many years, including the top surface.
In parallel to this the joys of White Wizard are experienced - this is a non-toxic eco-friendly solution recommended at one of Linda's museum meetings and also apparently used by metal detectors - just soak your rusty items for 24 hours, rinse in water, dunk in the solution again and dry - any hey presto the rust is gone and the metal shines - unbelievably effective.
After this excitement we raise the roof together and leave it roughly in place so that the tub/roof/bulkhead alignment can be finalised.
There is doubt (in some quarters) whether the Land Rover can fit under the up-and-over garage door, but we will proceed with optimism.
11 August 2013
Through a series of old cups and a sieve, cycle through packs of rusty old bolts and fittings applying the White Wizard magic.
Proceed with finalising the alignment of roof, tub and bulkhead. The bulkhead had to be tipped back to provide the required door gap and to align with the roof - this required the bulkhead support brackets to be slackened, the steering clamp to be released and the many awkward bulkhead bracket bolts to be loosened. The units now seem to match and the door gap appears OK, so roof lightly bolted in this new position. The various bolts will need to be re-tightened with additional packing pieces as required - a job for another day.
Also final roof bolt down awaits the arrival of a roll of greenhouse sealing rubber - a cheaper alternative to Land Rover's pricey products
12 August 2013
Decide to test fit the doors to confirm that they will fit with appropriate gaps around - starting with the passenger door as this is more accessible. In the event the door is rusted far more than thought - to split the top half, one of the bolts can be undone but the other needs sawing through as it's totally rusted up. The door is probably salvageable by someone with time, welding skills and the appropriate repair sections - will wait and see if a decent second-hand door becomes available and otherwise will obtain an after market unit to paint up.
The window section is well and truly shot though - remove all the reusable parts such as window channels and glass. The good news is that when propped against the doorway the door appears to fit well.
19 August 2013
The top part of the passenger door has now been dumped, as it was beyond practical repair.
The lower half has had the door lock, interior handle, door stay and galvanised capping removed, the door is photographed and a listing on eBay imminent.
The driver's door has now been split so that its condition can be assessed and inspection shows that it is probably sound, however the window section will need to be refurbished as the glass currently won't slide.
The door is tested and appears to fit accurately.
As both doors seem to fit, the roof and bulkhead can be bolted tight in position - as a start the new rubber sealing strip has been located between roof and side screens and bolting down has started.
20 August 2013
Dad's wall cupboard is now installed, and his old Roberts radio tuned into Radio Somerset - light entertainment has finally reached the garage.
Use two pieces of wood to prop up the front of the roof, apply rubber sealing strip and then bolt down. Use a similar approach for the rear of the roof. All is now bedded on the seal, and the final roof bolt down started.
26 August 2013
Roof is now all bolted down, and the bulkhead bolts are also fully tightened.
One spacer had to be made from an unused section of stainless steel, and all spacers were smeared with anti-rust solution to guard against bi-metallic corrosion.
Final bolts were for the steering column clamp, particularly awkward characters that needed a set of thick spanners to slip over lengthwise - fortunately just supplied by Dad as an ex-AJS motorcycle tool.
27 August 2013
The seat box was moved into the garden for a while and all the various seat fixings removed, some of which were quite rusty.
This is preliminary to removing all corrosion and cleaning everything up, a job best done outside while the warm weather prevails.
30 August 2013
Clean up seat box (aluminium), including passenger underseat storage box (mild steel) using white spirit (for the grease), paint scraper, wire wool and the electric drill with wire brush attachment.
There are some minor corrosion holes but the main problem is bi-metallic (galvanic) corrosion between the two metals.
(In the pictures, the oval slots are for the hand brake lever (driver side) and the optional PTO (power take off) controls on the other side - the slanted edge on the storage area is to clear the raised chassis member)
31 August 2013
The only way to tell the extent of the seat box corrosion is to remove the steel storage box - this requires the removal of 30-odd steel rivets, accomplished by drilling a small hole in the top (rounded) end of each rivet and then drilling with a larger bit about the same size as the rivet body.
On completion the problem does not seem too bad, and the two units should be able to be cleaned up, bent sections hammered out, a barrier added and the unit (pop) riveted back again.
1 September 2013
Started off cleaning up the storage box with steel wool in preparation for painting, then got side tracked looking for sills and seat box cover plates and then for some reason working out the correct routing for the speedo cable (!). The Internet gave the correct route, and on investigating where the cable brackets should be located found that one of the studs is missing that secures the bell housing to the engine. Found a nut that fits the existing studs and tried to screw in matching bolt, to no avail - on return to the Internet find that the studs are 3/8 unf one end and unc the other. Will see if a suitable bolt exists, otherwise need to get one from eBay - unfortunately only available as a set of 12.
Two more discoveries, the first being that there is no drain plug in the housing, although fortunately learn that this is a wading plug which should only be used if fording deep water. The second discovery is that of an id plate tucked behind the oil filter housing - have wanted to remove this sometime anyway to ensure there is a filter inside - there is. The id plate identifies the engine overhaul workshop as EC02, which apparently a REME designation, the EC originating from the wartime Eastern Command - this all ties up with the understanding that this was a military engine. The pistons designation is 020, apparently meaning they were bored .020" oversize. At a guess, the mains and big ends designations of ST mean they are standard. Finally the plate shows the engine was re-built in October 1976
31 March 2014
Well a brand new year, and it's starting to get warm again. The new garden path has been completed and it's time to return to the garage project.
A plan has been drawn up - the first one so far, and we'll see how things progress. The objective is to complete some works in progress and then take a look at running up the engine after all these years - that really will be a turning point.
8 April 2014
The 'Old Car Start-Up Procedure' on my plan refers to an American item found on the Internet. A key element (and possibly product placement? ) is the use of Marvel Mystery Oil, which I have not come across before. However a further moment on the web secured an order for said product, which on arrival promised to work wonders on any sort of engine, subject to the owner not dosing themselves with it.
28 April 2014
A nice drive out to Glastonbury in the sunshine for a stroll and coffee followed by a short hop to Meare to collect a rear step that I obtained on eBay for £1.
Fitted it on return to base and it looks mighty fine - probably the best value of any component on the vehicle.
30 April 2014
Cross off my first task in the plan - fitting the clutch bell housing stud.
Difficult to reach but manage to fit stud and torque up - obviously too late for the normal diagonal tightening routine but hopefully will do the job.
1 May 2014
Take a look at the next task - sorting out the front wheel backplates.
The brake pipe alignment problem appears to be due to needing to update the short pipe connecting the hubs to the flexible hose following fitting the larger size backplates.
The pipes will need to be ordered, but have removed the hub assembly from the front offside ready to align when the new pipes arrive.
3 May 2014
Parts order arrives today from LRDirect - very good service.
The new brake pipes are straight, unlike the nicely pre-formed versions illustrated, but no great problem. Work on offside front wheel, rotate backplate to correct angle and attach connecting brake pipe between cylinders.
Fit flexible brake pipe and replace brake drum to protect shoes - job nearly finished this side now.
23 May 2014
Today complete the outstanding work on the front brakes - hopefully this is the last time the wheels, hubs and anchor plates are removed as all new locking washers and gaskets have been fitted.
Piping from the front flexible pipes needs to be fitted and joined by a 'T' piece and onwards to the PDWA unit. According to the manual this Pressure Differential Warning Actuator allows one of the dual circuits to operate should the other fail, alerting the driver by a warning light.
However there is great debate on the Internet whether this is purely a warning system, and whether redundancy is provided by the master cylinder, which has two output lines.
Either way, as PDWAs are expensive and not essential the original plan on conversion to dual circuits was to omit the unit - however a NOS (New Old Stock) item was obtained on eBay and will be fitted.
Once the rear pipe and the two pipes from the master cylinder are connected to the PDWA the system can be filled, bled and tested - a major step forward.
10 June 2014
Well that PDWA didn't last long - closer examination of the switch showed that the two electrical connectors are joined by a brass strip, which seemed strange. After discussion with the vendor they asked for it to be returned for inspection and then established that this is correct.
Subsequently confirmed on the Internet - the unit can act in series with other switches (eg vacuum loss) which are normally open but short to earth on failure. However having already sent the unit back decided to simplify life and do without.
The workmate was taken into the garden and the sills and doors cleaned up with wire brush attachments on the drill - one of the door hinges is very stiff and has been steeped in penetrating oil overnight. The dark green door (that was swapped for a spare windscreen) appears largely sound, with just a little rust on the vulnerable lower frame - this will need to be rust-proofed and some rust inhibitor injected in the cavity.
11 June 2014
The two door rubber seals arrived today, but what was expected to be a 10 minute job remained uncompleted - the holes do not match the existing bulkhead holes, the windscreen clamps need to be removed for access and some of the fittings need longer rivets than found in the garage.
12 June 2014
Have a look at the front panel, on which the radiator grille fits and in which the radiator is mounted - there is a fair amount of surface rust and more seriously the lower flange is substantially rusted through. This structural damage can will be removed and replaced with some galvanised angle left over from some earlier project.
Started by removing some spot welded metal strips from the lower edge using the cutting disk drill attachment - however this has now worn through and some spares will be required.
The radiator appears sound, but will need water testing to be sure
13 June 2014
Arrival by post of fresh 4.8 x 20mm rivets, which are long enough to fit the door seals where the bulkhead flange is double skinned.
Select the required door hinges - two with door mirror attachments and two matching lower hinges. Start to clean these up and use White Wizard (see 7 August 2013) to clean the old bolt fittings. Also fit the first of the two captive bolts on the bulkhead - use a loop of string around them in case they fall into recess during fitting.
There are now three work streams - completing the brakes, fitting the doors/sills and cleaning/mending/fitting the radiator and front panel.
14 June 2014
Complete fixing the driver side door seal.
Attach door hinge captive nuts to bulkhead, using a length of string to stop them accidentally dropping inside.
Test fit both front doors to check bulkhead/rear tub alignment and door shutlines.
Adjusted so that gaps are even, but from memory they were more than the 5-7mm gaps that have now found that Land Rover recommend.
Also need to test with windows in place, as angle of windscreen will dictate gap on leading edge of window frame.
16 June 2014
Use drill wire brush and steel wool to clean and remove loose rust from radiator front panel, oil bath air filter holder assembly and gearbox cover.
Use angle grinder to remove rusted section of lower lip from front panel, and to fashion a piece of galvanised angle to act as re-enforcement.
18 June 2014
Use angle grinder to smooth down the section of radiator panel cut on Monday. Finish rubbing down the radiator panel, and also prepare the washer bottle holder and radiator fan.
Translate Hammerite anti-rust solution instructions from Spanish (one side effect of eBay buying!) and apply the milk-like fluid to the three items. Rust turns black almost immediately, and according to the instructions should be able to be overpainted within 3 hours.
19 June 2014
Complete the anti-rust treatment for the radiator panel, radiator fan, washer bottle holder, gearbox cover and oil bath filter holder assembly.
As the treatment is a thin liquid it can be sploshed on quite liberally, and overpainting with the Hammerite top coat will be a lot slower and painstaking.
20 June 2014
Black Hammerite radiator panel, prime the reinforcement angle with Hammerite Special Metals Primer (pink) and paint one side of radiator fan (bright red).
21 June 2014
Top coat black Hammerite on radiator panel and top coat red Hammerite on fan.
22 June 2014
Red Hammerite reverse face of fan.
Remove corroded worm drive hose clip from radiator lower pipe fitting, and decide to test the radiator. Just as well, as a fine jet of water spurts out in conjunction with a couple of potential dribbles - and this in an unpressurised system.
A quick Google shows that Evo-Stik Hard & Fast Metal Epoxy Putty may do the trick, so have ordered some on the basis that it is far cheaper than getting the radiator re-conditioned or replaced
3 July 2014
Well the epoxy putty is very impressive, although a tad tricky to apply wearing rubber gloves as recommended. The repair set solid on the perforated radiator tube, however when tested there was still a slight leak. Moreover a number of other seepages became apparent, with the assumption being that under full pressure the radiator would probably leak like a sponge - it looks like a new radiator is called for.
On a more positive front the radiator panel is now complete, the strengthening section riveted on, test fitted and waiting for a cosmetic lick of green paint on the front surface (which will be largely hidden behind the front grille).
3 August 2014
A short break for a Wedding, holiday and 90th birthday.
New radiator has now been purchased from Paddocks, and appears fit for purpose.
Front radiator panel was primed, followed by a coat of Land Rover pastel green gloss paint, front grille (which is plastic) cleaned up and cooling fan rubbed down and final top coat applied.
Still uncertain whether the body tub can/should be shifted slightly forward to reduce door shut lines.
5 August 2014
Decide to bolt on the cooling fan, using the appropriate four bolts on the top pulley - tighten bolts hard to persuade the fan to stay in place.
However too hard apparently, as the fourth bolt shears off - time to call it a day.
6 August 2014
Drill a pilot hole in the sheared bolt and then again using a smaller bit in reverse drive - the sheared bolt comes out surprisingly and pleasingly smoothly. Look through Dad's tins of bolts and find a perfect match - all bolts now tight, but not too tight.
Following 2 days of deliberations have decided to nudge rear tub forward by around ½ cm if possible, to provide better clearance for the fuel hoses and perhaps reduce the door shut lines marginally. Loosen the 10 rear retaining bolts and the 4 forward ones, then remove the bolts holding the roof to the windscreen and try to loosen rubber sealing strip, although to little avail. Use a plank of wood across the tub and with the assistance of the Domestic Manager nudge it forward a few mms.
Will slacken bolts a little more and try again later, and then obtain some packing strips to fill the gaps created.
7 August 2014
Enjoyable day wandering around Kimmeridge and Tyneham down in sunny Purbeck.
Return to the fray in the evening, slacken those bolts off and manage to edge the tub forward a little more.
Has now moved around ½ cm, which in Land Rover terms is a rounding error - however it does provide more tolerance for the fuel pipes, which are now protected by proper edge trim.
This is one of those many circumstances where a couple of days can be spent with nothing to be shown for it for the casual observer, but am glad it is done.
9 August 2014
Well the 20 odd packing strips needed would have cost about £24, so instead have bought some sheets of 1.5mm aluminium (grade 1050A which has excellent corrosion resistance) to fabricate the parts myself for less than half the price. Whether this is prudence or folly time will tell.
Retighten the windscreen bolts and take the opportunity to drill out the rivets and remove the roof air vent for later refurbishment.
11 August 2014
Found a useful entry on the Land Rover Owners' Forum by a Belgian called Jonathan - it contained detailed photos of the engine bay of a Series 3 under renovation.
Very helpful in showing the exact location of components such as the heating system, which is not included in the user manual. Air filter arrives today from eBay - it is based on an oil bath and the delivery was well wrapped in newspaper which helped contain the oily body.
It appears in good condition, protected from rust by the oil no doubt, and it has now been stripped down, cleaned up and the top and base painted with black hammerite.
Opportunity also taken to paint the ignition coil fitting bracket similarly.
12 August 2014
Today the aluminium pieces arrive, so fabricate 15 spacers for the rear tub fixings and then tighten up the bolts.
Take a look at the heater and test the fan - it does not appear to work so will have to dismantle it to see if the bushes require attention - the snail body is rather suspect but should be salvageable.
13 August 2014
Complete spacing out the front tub fittings and bolt up finally - door gaps either side are now about 34.5", which is what was recommended by someone on Land Rover Net who appeared quite knowledgeable.
It appears that the flexible pipe from the air cleaner and the metal pipe to the carburettor are both missing - the former is still available while the latter is a no longer serviceable part.
There seem to be variants with or without a feed to the rocker box breather - this was apparently added as a cleaner option, but as my breather cap does not have the necessary pipe (and replacements are quite pricey) I will stay with the original configuration.
Also investigate vacuum feeds for the servo and the advance-retard mechanism - there seems to be a number of options comprising either inlet manifold or carburettor connections, and current favourite is to feed the servo from the manifold (replacing the current adaptor) and take the other from the carburettor (as specified on Page 19-8 of the Repair Operation Manual).
14 August 2014
Short session today - replace three way inlet manifold adaptor with single servo feed and also replace heater valve.
Order a 22" length of advance vacuum tubing.
Test the heater radiator and fortunately all seems watertight. In the evening bid successfully for a metal pipe that blows air from the filter to the carburettor - this is a strange item as it incorporates 4 redundant holes which the vendor cannot explain. However it should be easy to fix and these things don't come up at reasonable prices often - whether this was a prudent purchase time will tell.
16 August 2014
Exciting day, as many deliveries turn up:neoprene sheet so that I can fabricate gaskets for the heater box and roof vent, plastic tubing for advance/retard (now fitted), new HT leads (now fitted), metal elbow for carburettor air duct (as discussed previously, and should be serviceable), sealing foam strip (for heater) and flexible air tube (from air filter).
The most exciting however was a book called Land Rover Series III Reborn by Lindsay Porter. It provides a copiously illustrated step by step guide to rebuilding a Series 3 Land Rover - not sure why this has only just come to my attention as it could have saved a lot of bewilderment in previous months.
Clean up the heater box (drill out a broken bolt), steel wool the rust and apply Hammerite de-ruster. Treat also the bulkhead brackets fittings that the wings will bolt onto. Fit washer jets.
Have decided on a new course of Next Steps, aimed at starting the engine, as this has not seen action for many years - the essential electrics, cooling, fuel and lubrication.
18 August 2014
Paint the heater box, its cover and brackets. Clean up the lower dash and attach it loosely in the cabin - further plastic nutserts (captive bolts) are required for completion. Feed the wiring loom through the bulkhead grommet and screw it down.
In the evening order jubilee clips for the water and air hoses and check a couple of anomalies:
* The wiper adaptors do not fit the wiper spindles - ascertain that these are later fittings for spindles with flats on. As these are the only ones available they either need to be drilled out or preferably a flat ground onto each spindle. This is not urgent.
* There is no bulkhead wide drainage channel for the rear of the bonnet - apparently this was not fitted to some bulkheads and there is no available part, other than a Defender channel, that may fit. Will look at this later, as again it is not critical.
19 August 2014
Fit heater element into freshly painted casing, pad with foam strips, and attach sealing lid - cannot all be installed yet as have found an extra two brackets that need to be used, so de-rust and paint these.
Next attend to that odd carburettor air inlet elbow - deburr inside of holes with file, remove paint around holes with emery paper, apply metal epoxy putty to fill each hole, smooth inside surfaces and finally paint. The elbow is now good to go.
Fit the two front wing top brackets to the bulkhead, using freshly painted parts. It will be a while before these are required, but in the interim they will be useful in catching my arms and keeping me alert.
Prime the visible surfaces of the rear tub spacers and overpaint with Hammerite.
Investigate the upper dashboard - have two different versions from pre and post-1975 models and described optimistically in the Parts Manual as Crash Padding. Appear similar apart from the different demister vent layouts and states of repair - preference would be to re-fit the earlier variant, but needs further invesigation.
20 August 2014
Fit heater box - fabricate a foam gasket for the bulkhead joint and drill holes for the lower brackets as the footwell repair section did not have them. Cannot fully plumb in, as it transpires the original rear hose connection had been cut off and is too short - a replacement ordered online. As the jubilee clips came today could join the air filter tube and elbow.
21 August 2014
Take an inordinately long time attaching rubber collar to the air intake elbow that fits onto carburettor - soak it in hot water and use penknife blades and screw drivers to forcibly lever it on. Is now secured by jubilee clip.
Sort out dashboard tops - the later model version is in better shape but the earlier one fits directly without modification and in any case is more suited to the vehicle age.
Bolt onto the front plate - cannot fit combined unit until new windscreen washer tubes are obtained and fitted. Rivet on the air flow divider panel.
22 August 2014
Rivnuts arrive today, so complete fixing of lower dashboard.
Lubricate heater cable using funnel fashioned out of duct tape and an old mastic nozzle - appears to work fine.
24 August 2014
Quick visit to fit hoses to heater, as the replacement rear hose arrived yesterday. The end of the metal pipe first needed cleaning up and de-ruster applied.
Will not fit radiator yet, as do not want to risk damaging it while completing outstanding jobs in engine bay.
Clean up the two rusted heater fan brackets and apply de-ruster.
25 August 2014
Clean up instrument binnacle and test the switches with multimeter - one faulty so exchange with old one from goodness knows where.
Investigate how both the ignition switch and its cowling are fixed on - inconclusive, as not shown in Parts Manual and most references refer to versions with steering locks, a feature not enjoyed by MTL 153G.
26 August 2014
Find a photograph online of the ignition switch bracket and realise that fortunately there is one in one of the boxes of bits.
Plastic tubing arrives for the windscreen washers, so fit tubing and then bolt on the upper dash complete with instrument binnacle. Remove driver's door and steering wheel for improved access to the instrument wiring area. Fit passenger side ventilation mechanism. Fit indicator stalk, ensuring automatic cancellation mechanism works.
27 August 2014
Short period spent sorting through instrument wiring and testing bulbs. String instrument panel up for ease of access.
Fit driver side ventilation mechanism.
During afternoon visit Halfords and buy engine oil and a new battery
28 August 2014
Fit ignition coil on bracket attached to clutch master cylinder mounting - not a conventional position but hopefully sound.
Investigate hazard lights, and decide to upgrade - order a push button switch with built in hazard relay from eBay.
31 August 2014
Well Linda's birthday is now safely over and the hazard switch/light arrived yesterday, which is pretty good service. It strangely has 7 terminals, and a quick Internet search found the necessary wiring diagram that was missing from the package received.
Today fit the controls for the heating and ventilation systems.
Carry out more wiring of the instrument panel. Cannot complete until the replacement lighting switch arrives. The ignition and fuse box wiring will then need to be checked and a few stray wires identified and processed. That will wait until after our early September break
16 September 2014
Warm and strangely quiet day (other than the crows which are regularly dispersed with a quick blast of the bulb horn).
Continue with the braking system - fabricate a bracket for the front T-piece and bolt onto the front bump stop bracket. This takes longer than expected (like most jobs) due to the difficulty in wedging the electric drill into an appropriate position.
Cut and bend two lengths of brake pipe - one from the front offside flexible hose to the T-piece and the other from the master cylinder to the rear brake line connector.
This leaves two outstanding - the nearside pipe and the section from the T-piece to the master cylinder.
17 September 2014
Prepare battery tray and drain tube - both were filthy, with an underseal type mastic covering which had to be removed.
Fabricate brake pipe for nearside front brake to T-piece - loosely fit pipe pending the flaring of the ends, for which someone else will be co-opted.
18 September 2014
Speak with O&O engineering about the brake pipes - they are happy to produce the required flared ends.
Cut the final section to length and take all four to O&O - they should be ready by Monday 22nd
21 September 2014
A weekend of cultural diversity - yesterday in Georgian Bath and today in Elizabethan Henstridge, working on the offside wing.
Side, indicator and headlamp light fittings all removed with various degrees of difficulty, requiring the screws to be drilled out in some instances. There are replacement inner wing mud shield splash guards to be fitted - last picture below shows state of current item.
24 September 2014
Rusty mud shield has now been removed by drilling out rivets and removing the bracket - this needs to be de-rusted and rust-proofed.
Old aerial fitting and wing mirror also removed.
Today picked up the four brake pipes that have had their ends flared at O&O. A nice job done (although they had to straighten some of my bends that will need re-doing). At £5 this is far better value (and safer) than buying those cheap brake flaring kits, but that's a lesson for next time (!)
25 September 2014
Fit three of the four front brake pipes. Although these were bent to fit before having them flared they had to be partially straightened by the garage. Re-bending is slightly more problematic when flared, as the fittings cannot be removed for the coiled bending springs to be used. The fitted pipes are now tightened up and clamped appropriately to the chassis.
The vehicle was finally jacked up at the front to ensure that the brake pipes are not fouled by the wheels or steering links at full lock - all appears fine.
30 September 2014
Now the proud owner of a black cubby box, which will lie between the two front seats (eventually - it's on top of the roof for safe keeping currently). An eBay bargain for £5.
Brake pipes are now all installed, tightened and secured. Spare wheel has been pumped up to 15psi ready for application of the Gunson Eezibleed system. This uses air pressure rather than the assistance of a second party pedal pusher - the initial test uses air pressure only, without fluid, and this indicates that there may be more tightening of unions needed somewhere at the rear.
As bleeding the rear brakes is easier jacked up with the wheels off then this will be a job for another day.
1 October 2014
A very warm and pleasant day spent at Athelhampton House near Dorchester, followed by a much needed lawn mowing.
Time for a quick stint in the garage - jack up the rear onto axle stands, remove the rear road wheels and pressurise the brake system - identify cause of the leak and nip up the offending joint.
Fill master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid and leave overnight to see what happens, at which point bleeding can start in earnest.
4 October 2014
Despite the successful air pressure tests the rear brake pipe seeped overnight and proved difficult to cure. Decided to remove the pipe and have a new pipe prepared professionally, so next week will get a new 58" section made up.
Bolt the front panel to the chassis brackets for a test fit and paint the two front apron panel brackets that fit on to the outer bolts.
Paint the 'horn protector plate' - this lies above the steering relay but is nowhere near the horn as fitted, although would separate them for certain model configurations. Whether there is any need for this is uncertain, but as it is available it will be fitted.
10 October 2014
The new brake pipe was cut and flared earlier in the week while I waited, and today it was bent to the correct shape using the original as a template. Is now fully fixed and tightened, the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid and the system left overnight to test for seepages.
Decided to add another brake pipe fixing clamp, so cut an old tee plate brace to fit then primed and painted it ready for fitting tomorrow.
Happy Birthday Ruth!
11 October 2014
Fitted the new brake pipe bracket and clamp, and the pipe is now held firmly in place.
Check for seepages - none, so fit Eezibleed system and bleed each wheel in turn. Road wheels are removed in turn for ease of access, and each tyre is inflated prior to re-fitting. In the case of the front wheels the bleed screws are lower than the bottom cylinders, and the instructions state that in this case when the brake adjustment operates on one end of the shoe this should be tightened before bleeding to return the cylinder to a closed position. This was done, but looking again at the brake shoe arrangement it looks more likely that the adjuster should be slackened instead.
Not easy to tell how effective brakes are, although brake pedal does not seem especially firm - time will tell.
Fit Eezibleed system to clutch master cylinder, however on slackening the bleed screw nothing comes out - air or fluid. After a little research on the Internet it appears there may be problems priming a new cylinder, so two suggestions carried out - vigorous pumping of the clutch pedal and jamming the pedal down overnight.
12 October 2014
Short session today - verifies yesterday's suggestions as clutch is successfully bled and appears to be operational.
29 October 2014
Mild weather continues - move workbench into garden and use wire brush on seatbox to remove corrosion and general gunk. Parts of the unit are quite corroded and will need refurbishment.
Repeat the process for the under seat storage box and the three top plates.
1 November 2014
Complete adjustment of free play in the clutch pedal and replace the pedal box plate and gasket.
Fit battery box/air filter housing - the filter obstructs both the coil and brake pipes, so adjust them to ensure clearance. The battery base drainage pipe does not clear the battery holder - not sure that this is necessary for modern sealed batteries but will make a clearance hole for it anyway.
The seatbox under tray is now fully de-rusted and Kurust applied - further work on the seatbox itself awaits a decision on how to deal with areas of corrosion, the options being to fabricate new sections, purchase repair sections or acquire a cheap eBay unit to create one robust version.
14 November 2014
Well the seatbox issue has been resolved, as a Series 2 version was acquired from eBay for £10. Collected it from North Curry in the pouring rain on 6th November and examined it the next day. Remarkably its areas of corrosion complement mine, and a complete unit should be able to be constructed out of them.
Nice day today so take work bench into garden and start to clean up seatbox, using combination of electric drill and angle grinder to remove rusted fittings. The difference between the two Series versions appears negligible and there are no nasty surprises - so thank you Alan.
15 November 2014
Another stint in the garden, using wire brush drill attachment to clean up the 'new' seatbox.
The seatbox is sound other than the two cross-members, so with a combination of drill and chisel persuade the spot welds to yield and release the two original and two new components
19 June 2015
Two speed heater fan from recent eBay purchase arrives. Test it out at both speeds and it operates impressively strongly and quietly.
Original unit is seized, so may try to free it one day - in the mean time the new one should be very serviceable.
27 June 2015
Work on driver and passenger adjustable seat runners to free them up.
After much use of penetrating oil they are now sufficiently free to be useable.
1 July 2015
In the middle of a mini heat-wave, which makes wearing an overall rather tricky.
Have now sorted out all the seating arrangements, and have placed surplus rear seat backs, various centre seat cushions and the original seat box on eBay.
Drilled out a few inconveniently placed rivets in the 'new' seatbox, removed surplus mastic and straightened a few kinks in the metal work.
Finally test fit the under-seat storage box.
3 July 2015
This replacement seatbox did not have an underseat storage box before, so mark out and drill new fixing holes.
Rivet on the box using tape between the aluminium and steel, and applying anti-corrosion paste to the rivets.
4 July 2015
Paint the inside of the storage box with red Hammerite (needs using up!). Will probably line with some material at some stage if this is to be used to actually store anything.
Find out the seat box rear frame is bowed inwards 1cm in centre, so spread open with length of wood.
Cross panels and seat runners should now fit, although the centre steel cover will require relocation of the turnbuckle - these seatbox arrangements appear to vary a great deal.
7 July 2015
Happy Birthday Robert Peter!
10 July 2015
Seatbox is now pretty well refurbished. Runners are all bolted down, and the various cross plates riveted in place. The old rusty captive nuts for the floor panels have been removed and their locations de-rusted and painted with Hammerite.
The turnbuckle for the middle panel has been relocated from the driver side where it was no longer needed. The storage box underside has been painted with two coats of dark green Hammerite.
14 July 2015
Move seatbox into place - this requires hand brake lever to be disconnected so that it can fit through its aperture.
Apply mastic along edge and screw to tub.
Prepare sills using Hammerite Kurust to kill off areas of rust, and later in the evening apply Hammerite (copper) paint to the same areas.
15 July 2015
Re-attach hand brake lever, test fit the seats and test sit in the drivers seat for the first time.
20 July 2015
Paint two coats of Hammerite on the captive bolt plates that connect each door sill to the bulkhead.
While waiting for these to dry completely, investigate the old rusted passenger door.
Google the process for removing the skin from the frame and decide to try it - drill out the rivets at the top and round the door handle, pry open the panel seam and gradually ease the door skin off.
Door frame is too rusted for service, so chop it up for removal to the tip.
Clean up the door skin and knock out a few small dents, ready for a more thorough drill wire brushing of the corroded parts at a later stage.
Buy a refurbished door frame on eBay for £10 - if all goes well this will be covered by the sale of the dark green door I was going to use initially.
29 July 2015
The door skin has now been cleaned up with a wire drill brush, and Kurust applied to kill off any lingering corrosion.
The eBay door frame turned up and was better than expected - in a good state of repair and including its original (dark green) door skin, which was unexpected. Apply a generous coat of black Hammerite to the edges where it will abut the skin.
Remove passenger door, trim the door rubber and then bolt passenger side door sill to bulkhead at the front and tub at the back, applying anti-rust treatment as appropriate.
The upper seat belt anchorage brackets arrived today - they should fit the bill although unfortunately do not align with any existing bolt fittings and will need new holes to be drilled. The passenger side seat belt fixed anchorage is now bolted in place, using an L shaped bracket from the kit.
31 July 2015
Fit original door skin to newly acquired door frame, folding the aluminium edges back over the frame lip, with an intervening layer of tape to discourage corrosion. Rivet to top of frame and use closed dome rivets around the handle so as to discourage water ingress.
Fit new door back onto vehicle - appears to hang OK, although will not fully shut and will need further fettling later.
Apply Kurust to corroded parts of door capping.
5 August 2015
Door capping now riveted in place. Door fettling complete - involved much jiggling of the door position, removing, cleaning and adjusting the striker plate and replacing the hinges with the original ones. Door now engages upon a good Land Rover style slam.
Lower safety belt anchorage now fitted and seatbox bolted to door sill.
This is all happening on the easily accessible passenger side, the driver's side being yet to do.
6 September 2015
Fit driver side lower seat belt anchorage and bolt seatbox down onto sill.
Clean up, paint as necessary and fit the various transmission tunnel panels - gearbox diaphragm, gearbox cover and cover plate.
Adjust and test fit the driver side floor panel - there is an art to fitting this, in order to avoid the obstructing handbrake lever and foot pedals.
4 October 2015
The passenger upper door is now refurbished - Linda applied a top coat of coach paint, the original glass panes were cleaned up, window channels installed, fixed pane secured with mastic, sliding pane screwed into position and window locking catch fitted. Top of door capping de-rusted and rubber sealing strip positioned and finally door top with glazing bolted into place. All appears to operate correctly.
More work carried out on driver floor panel, with a strengthening bar fixed to underside to deter flexing and protect the nearby brake lines.
4 June 2017
Where did 2016 go? Well it's certainly been a long time, judging from the disapproving expression of my assistant.
Have decided to concentrate on the cab and instrumentation, and therefore fitted the driver's floor plate using insulation strips to prevent (or slow down!) water egress, the 4-wheel drive gear selector fitting (yellow knob) and high/low transfer box select gaiter assembly (red knob).
In readiness for sorting out the instrument panel have made a wiring/bulb check-list, so that there is a reasonable expectation that everything will work after screwing it all back into place.
9 June 2017
Instrument panel now tested (using checklist), any missing leads connected and connections all cleaned. A conventional car accessory socket is now wired into the back of the front panel power outlets.
The ignition switch bracket is fitted, and choke knob and ignition switch installed, and the binnacle upper and lower fittings screwed on.
The steering wheel cannot be fitted yet, as a double coil (thackery) washer must be acquired for the steering column below the indicator cancelling collar.
Handbrake gaiter now fitted. Passenger side floor panel test fitted, and captive nuts adjusted as necessary.
13 June 2017
Passenger floor panel now fitted and bolted down.
Thackery washer for steering column arrived in the post and is now fitted.
Made a start on cables in the engine bay, to correct and connect as necessary.
Serial plate fitted inside cab.
Breather pipe fitted between air filter and carburettor, after a bit of persuasion.
14 June 2017
Another stint tidying up cables. Fitted battery, which needed a slight modification to the battery carrier to allow space for the drainage pipe - no idea how that worked before. Wiper motor and horn work from their instrument panel switches, but heater, washer & lights are not yet wired up.
Topped up engine with oil and hand cranked it to make sure it still turns OK.
16 June 2017
More cable tidying - all engine bay wiring complete except for washer bottle and heater.
(Front and rear lighting looms will be added in due course).
Test fit passenger side front wing to identify where heater mountings will locate. The motor inlet needs to line up with the vent in the wing, but as the footwell is new there are no pre-exisiting mounting holes.
17 June 2017
Mark up position for heater fan housing, remove front wing, drill holes in footwell and bolt on the housing brackets.
The snail fan housing is basically sound but has loose surface rust with a few pin holes and one sheared bolt. Widen the holes to make easier to fill, wire wool the inside and outside surfaces, drill out the sheared bolt, re-tap the thread and liberally apply Kurust rust treatment.
On the front wing, drill out the rivets holding the mud guard panel bracket, remove bracket from the panel (difficult, as rusted on), clean up the brackets and apply Kurust.
18 June 2017
Used two of my favourite products today, Evo-stik metal epoxy putty (to mend those holes in the fan housing) and Kurust (to neutralise areas of rust, of which there are many).
Invert the nearside front wing, replace the side light and indicator light fittings and treat areas of rust.
Hammerite the mud guard panel bracket in copper finish - have run out of black.
21 June 2017
The hot spell continues unabated. A major milestone now reached, as connected up battery, turned on ignition and turned the engine over. There is no fuel onboard yet, so no danger of firing up, which is just as well as there is no cooling system in place either. However this proves that the starter motor and solenoid both work and are wired correctly, and it's also a psychological boost.
With more Hammerite black paint having been acquired the fan housing is now painted inside and out and looks quite serviceable.
The newly installed guard panel is now covered in underseal on both surfaces. This is a bit daunting as the can (Tetraschutz) states that it is for professional use only and is injurious to skin contact and breathing in the fumes. It was applied liberally using a brush and there are no medical repercussions as yet.
22 June 2017
Fan housing now mounted, and air pipe fitted to the heater box. All wired up and works at both speeds from the dashboard switch.
Front wing re-fitted and bolted to bulkhead. Bolts to front radiator panel are more problematic, and it appears they should be fitted using two radiator bolt plates, one with two captive bolts and one with three. Will try and use normal bolts if possible, as the plates will probably be a silly price even if they are available.
27 June 2017
As suspected, the bolt plates were a silly price, so the wing was bolted to the radiator panel with the assistance of Linda and a mole wrench. Remaining bolts fitted - the join between the mud guard panel and bulkhead (illustrated) would benefit from some underseal at some time, to deter any trapped water from corroding the metal (an alternative approach used by some is to leave a purpose made gap to allow drainage). The bulkhead wing mounting bolts (illustrated) are deep inside the wing panel but can at least be tightened single-handedly.
Attention then transferred to the driver side front wing, which was in an even tattier state. Its headlamp was floating around in a storage box and the housing for this was extremely shabby - as was the bracket that holds the mud guard panel in place and the remnants of the old one. These have all been wire brushed, steel-woolled, Kurust rust-treated and Hammerite painted as necessary. Same applies to steering box guard, where some old underseal also had to be removed prior to treatment. The angle grinder also joined in the fun to abrade a few high spots in a flurry of sparks.
The headlamp assembly is all present apart from the gasket, which is totally shot. These can be sourced online at £10 upwards but it was quicker to fabricate one from a sheet of neoprene, which was bought originally to replace the roof vent seal.
28 June 2017
Refurbished headlamp assembly bolted onto the offside wing, and ditto with replacement side and indicator lights.
Guard bracket rivetted onto wing and guard bolted on to this and to inner wing. This latter fixture had to be reinforced using a plate fashioned from Dexion slotted angle (illustrated) to allow for the corroded aluminium surface. A good coating of Tef-Gel gel applied between the surfaces to discourage further galvanic corrosion.
Wing is now almost ready to fit, just needing a touch up of underseal to cover the bracket fittings.
Painted rest of steering box guard with Hammerite.
1 July 2017
Steering box guard bolted to wing guard.
Work continued on areas in engine bay that will be harder to access when offside wing fitted - battery clamp and front loom wiring. Rear wiring loom now connected and each wire tested with a bulb at the rear - all work OK (including flashing indicators), but not before burning out two fuses by accidently shorting the brake switch connectors.
Today was the Blackmore Vale Revival meeting at the airfield, and an examination of one of the Land Rover exhibits gave a few useful tips on wing stays, washer bottle motor arrangements and front wiring loom routing. The second front wing is now bolted loosely in place, after some minor re-routing of wiring, brake pipes, air filter and front panel. It was more tricky than the nearside wing but this was expected.
5 July 2017
Reflectors bolted onto rear. Hole drilled and grommet inserted for rear lights. Number plate lamp, both rear tail lights and indicator lights installed. Battery clamp improved.
Land Rover logo badge moved to offside, and the number plate bolted onto the nearside - it is larger than its predecessor and the rear door hinge would get in the way. The paint markings clearly show the change, but after another 40 odd years it will probably be less obvious.
10 July 2017
Front nearside mud flap fitted.
Two grab handles fitted to rear - these are a disappointment as they are lightweight flimsy affairs. Will try and replace with authentic parts on eBay if possible.
12 July 2017
Nearside sill trim bolted on.
Rear wiring room extended to nearside and secured. All rear lights are now working, just requiring the trim panels to be fixed to hide the wiring inside the tub.
15 July 2017
Attend to front offside wing - the bolts into the bulkhead are very tricky, and it would be easier perhaps if the mudguard were fitted afterwards or the outer skin of the wing removed. However eventually fitted, as is bolting inner wing skin to the chassis bracket. Finally mudguard bolted onto bulkhead footwell, which just leaves the bolts to the front radiator panel.
While lying under the vehicle noted that oil was leaking from the sump drain, so tightened the plug. This should stop the pooling of oil under the engine, although fortunately there is sufficient oozing from the gearbox to demonstrate that this is a genuine land rover.
28 July 2017
Offside wing now fully bolted to radiator panel.
Bonnet extracted from back of garage, dusted down and slotted into its hinges with the aid of a length of nylon cord over a garage roof cross-beam. Held open for now by the cord for ease of engine bay access. Bonnet in reasonable condition and includes spare wheel mounting; the underside has a few rust patches which need to be cleaned up at some time but not too serious.
Radiator bolted into place using the required 12 bolts, which seems quite a lot. (For some reason the parts manual indicates 13 bolts, 7 of which are on the top edge, compared with 4 on the top of mine). Also bolt on the overflow bottle carrier, install the bottle and connect its feed to the radiator overflow. The radiator cowling was hung loosely over the fan beforehand, as there seems insufficient space to fit it afterwards.
Now for the radiator bottom hose. As with the top hose these need to be first trimmed, and about 1" is taken off the shorter end of the bottom hose to allow a good fit. Access is quite difficult, so remove fan blades first to make life easier.
1 August 2017
Fan blades bolted back on, radiator cowling fitted and top hose trimmed and clamped into position.
Bonnet lid stay connected, the nylon securing cord removed and bonnet catch fitted. Somewhere there is a bonnet rest strip that fits over the radiator panel; this hasn't been seen for a while so will need re-discovery. There is also a larger than expected gap at the sides of the bonnet that could allow rain in - a quick google confirms there is no seal for this, although some folk use a generic car sealing strip, so will look into this.
A wheel was positioned on the bonnet, and this looks quite the part; unfortunately as ever it is not that simple and the wheel clamps are too long for this type of wheel.
Finally, and more eventfully, pour 20 litres of petrol into the tank. The lingering smell of petrol highlights the fact that the tank leaks, which appears to be due to an ill-fitting but well-named drain plug. So with the doughty assistance of Linda drain out the precious fluid and decant back into the fuel can - this will need filtering before re-use. Order a new drain plug and washer, which hopefully will remedy the problem. One bright spot was that the fuel gauge rose marginally at the time, so that's one item that may actually work.
12 August 2017
Fuel tank drain plug replaced with correct copper washer and tank re-filled. Thankfully this time it retained its precious cargo.
Test windscreen washer system and all seems OK, including the little one-way valve in the bottle that prevents water draining back and therefore speeds up delivery at the nozzle.
Take a look at the bumper; this is quite a heavy lump and obviously didn't want to part company from its previous mount judging from the bent brackets. A club hammer was insufficient to change its ways but a sledge hammer put the message across quite effectively. Brackets then wire-brushed and Hammerited.
Start made to wiring up the front lights.
14 August 2017
A bumper day today.
26 August 2017
An interesting few days investigating the vagaries of engine startup.
The main requirements are basic; the engine needs to be turned over, a spark to occur roughly when needed and the fuel to squirt out in an ignitable state. Preferably also the various engine parts are lubricated and cooled. We'll take those all in turn:
Turning the engine over, even without the spark plugs in place is rather sluggish. This is found to be due to inadequate engine block earthing - the starter does not have its own earthing connection but does so via the engine. Until such time as an earthing strap is acquired, will use a jump lead from the engine block to the battery negative terminal. The fact that this lead gets warm during turnover justifies its existence.
The plugs spark quite healthily from the beginning, but the engine spits back through the air intake and won't fire. There are no timing marks on the front of the engine, and a search for the alternative flywheel marks fails to find the covering plate, which means that assuming it exists it will be in a rather inaccessible position. TDC on cylinder 1 can be found through inserting a stick (shortened garden cane) through the plug hole, turning the engine until cylinder 1 is on compression (both valves closed with a clearance gap under the tappets) and judging when the stick is at its highest. Interestingly, when this happens the rotor arm points 180° out from where all instructions say it should. Remove the distributor and attempt to align the rotor spindle correctly, but the driving dog only fits in one direction. This must have been incorrectly fitted but it can be corrected by removing a worm screw and re-sitting the unit. However access is awkward - instead the distributor can be used as it is, with the HT leads moved around to compensate. This appears to work OK, although some leads will need replacing with longer versions.
So that's the starter and the timing sorted, what about fuel? The mechanical petrol pump fitted differs from many in that it has no glass sediment bowl, however it does have the lift lever underneath that can be used for manual priming. This lever has a 'run' position at the top, a fact that wasn't immediately apparent.
As for lubrication and cooling, the only problem was that removal of the rocker cover disclosed a totally dry top end. However after each set of engine turns the oil level dropped, as air was replaced by oil in the filter and other voids, and after a while the level stabilised and oil rose to the top end.
So is everything now in place? Well there's a bit of confusion as the charge warning light does not come on, but this may well be an earthing issue with the right hand instrument cluster. Anyway, yes, the engine now runs, and surprisingly sweetly; while fumy there is far less smoke exhausted than expected from a refurbished engine that hasn't run for over 5 years!
2 September 2017
Vehicle wouldn't start when we had visitors, so check out all HT leads and replace spark plugs with new ones. Now starts OK and runs smoothly, although the idle speed needs adjusting. The good news is that the temperature gauge works. The bad news is that there is still insufficient oil getting to the top end and quite a lot of oil leaks from the oil filter (only when running) - events that may well be related.
8 September 2017
Short session today; tighten up oil filter to resolve oil leak, connect remaining front lights (apart from a few earth leads) and start up. A small amount of oil is now reaching top end, so hopefully after a few more stop-starts this will sort itself out.
12 September 2017
Scrub washer bottle and fit new internal pipe. The motor in the lid no longer works, and these are commonly replaced by a standalone unit at the side. Decide to screw this onto the heater box, as it has conveniently located mounting screws and can be fitted inline with the water pipes. Whether this location proves too hot we'll see.
Testing proves problematic, the first weakness being the filter/one way valve in the bottle. While this allows faster operation by retaining washer fluid in the pipes, the unit fitted requires too much water pressure to operate efficiently, so remove the valve with a bradawl and retain the fitting purely as a filter. More troublesome is the chunky washer/wiper switch which appears temperamental. Unscrew instrument panel and remove the switch for further investigation when back from holiday.
Take the opportunity to swap the leads on the light switch so that the side lights and dipped beams light in the correct order.
24 September 2017
Tackle one of the electrical jobs - why doesn't the Ignition light display when the ignition is on? Test that the bulb works, is connected correctly and that both wires to alternator are sound.
Problem therefore probably lies with the connections themselves (they look slightly corroded) or the alternator internals, so remove it for further investigation.
25 September 2017
Remove alternator end cover to inspect the innards - nothing obviously wrong but very corroded in places.
An aftermarket replacement from Paddocks would cost £44 +p&p, which is tempting. However Amazon sell a repair kit for £16 that includes the rectifier, regulator and brushes, which are the items most likely to be worn or faulty - there is no evidence that the coil or bearings have failed. Despite the fact that one of the end cover bolts has sheared and the connector retaining fitting is inoperative decide to carry out a repair and stay original. I may well regret that decision of course.
29 September 2017
Alternator overhaul kit arrives today. Will replace all parts except rectifier initially, as this needs to be soldered on and there is a risk of damage to the diodes if it becomes overheated through incompetent solder work. However if the unit still fails to work properly will have to bite the bullet. The grounding bolt appears quite corroded, so will need to be cleaned up either way.
Remove old regulator, brush housing and brushes. Clean up brush housing and terminal block and clean the slip ring (which is on the end face of the shaft), checking that the resistance of the rotor winding is within an acceptable 3 to 4 ohms range.
Check for any earth leakages, none found.
1 October 2017
Clean up the rectifier ground connection and apply some copper slip grease to keep it sound; install new regulator, brushes and housing. Drill out the sheared bolt for the end cover and tap a new thread. Place refurbished unit on front wing, connect the cables, ground the body, connect the battery, switch on the ignition. . . and the Charge bulb lights!
So the rectifier won't need changing after all.
Next step is to mend the terminal plug retaining clip, reinstall the whole shebang and then see if the light goes out when the engine runs.
4 October 2017
Mend the alternator end-cap clip anchorage using an old mains cable clamp - looks like it was made for the job. Replace alternator, start the engine and the Charge light goes out. This implies that the battery is now being charged.
However after using a battery charger earlier the battery voltage was 12.8 volts, and this did not appear to rise later when the car was running, whereas around 14.4 volts would normally be expected. Perhaps further investigation is required. . . .
5 October 2017
Run up engine and test voltage across the battery - increases to around 13.8 volts, so it is obviously being charged. Finish tightening alternator bolts and tick off that job.
While running engine note that the engine gets very hot but the radiator does not, so will need to check out the operation of the thermostat at some time.
Take a look at the windscreen washers and wipers, neither of which work properly. Problem appears to lie with the switch, which on dismantling proves to be rather messed up internally. Clean it up, but the brass contacts have lost their springiness, and on re-assembly the switch remains unsound and will need to be replaced.
11 October 2017
Revised V5 document has been returned by the DVLA, showing the change from Diesel to Petrol engine. The vehicle is also now off SORN, and is shown as taxed - tax free for Historic Vehicle status.
Connect a plastic pipe to the engine block water drain and extract a pint or so of coolant. Remove top hose and thermostat housing and remove thermostat ready for replacement. This is a skirted variety (skirt moves when the thermostat opens), wax operated and rated at 74°. The replacement will be the 82°'winter' version, which should warm up the engine (and heater) more quickly.
14 October 2017
Fit replacement thermostat and top hose and then top up with coolant.
Replace wash/wipe combined switch and both now work correctly.
Have a look at the rear safari door that has been standing neglected for many years. A fair amount of corrosion to the frame, especially the lower frame member that is substantially rusted through. Remove lower section of door skin to examine further - replacement repair sections are available but it will depend on whether the structural integrity of the lower door mount can be maintained.
23 October 2017
Further inspection of the rear door shows that although the lower frame is severely corroded, the load bearing section with the hinge mounting has steel re-enforcements and is sound. The door is therefore just about salvageable.
One other problem is that the door is slightly warped, bowing out on the hinge side. Placing the door flat on two lengths of timber and jumping lightly on the door corrects this anomaly nicely. The door is therefore in a sufficiently good state that a lower repair section is worth ordering.
Cut out the corroded section and wire-brush all remaining areas that have loose rust. Also chisel off the door stay bracket in case it can be re-used.
25 October 2017
Repair section arrives today; was meant to be a Series 3 profile but it actually has a symmetric cross-section.
Cut it to length and taper ends to match the down member profiles.
1 November 2017
After further thought, that repair section was not really up to the required standard. It did not have the same profile as the original, but more importantly was of an inferior gauge. When explained to the eBay seller they promptly offered a full refund, despite the fact that it had been modified and was not suitable to return - very impressive service.
The new section from YRM was about twice the cost, but is zintec coated (electrogalvanised, as opposed to dipped) and of thicker gauge. Compared like for like the new section weighs 1,321gm as against 972gm. This is a 36% increase, which even accounting for the zinc coating suggests a heavier gauge steel. The profile differs from the previous section but both differ from the original anyway.
Trim the new section to fit and paint one side with Hammerite Special Metals Primer.
2 November 2017
Quick session today - paint one side of repair section with Hammerite black and then steel wool and file the cut ends of the vertical frame sections to remove rust, and apply Kurust rust inhibitor.
8 November 2017
Other side of repair section now Hammerite painted, as are vertical frame ends.
Cut four re-enforcement plates from a steel sheet that came with the original purchase. Process expedited by getting some steel cutting blades for the jigsaw, obviating the need to complete by hacksaw alone.
Clean up and then black Hammerite the plates on both sides.
9 November 2017
The original intention was to leave the outer skin of the safari door partially attached for ease of re-assembly. However there is corrosion at the top of the frame that needs attention, and therefore the skin must be removed.
The glazing rubber seal is removed along the top edge, and the right and left edge trims prised out at their lower ends for the skin to be eased up and out.
Re-sealing these may be tricky, but that's a problem for another day.
12 November 2017
Door frame is in a bit of a state, so use a combination of steel wool and drill wire brush attachments to remove as much rust as possible. Remove door handle/lock assembly and clean up. Coat ouside of frame with Kurust and a day later paint with a liberal coat of black Hammerite.
28 November 2017
Inside surface of door now cleaned up, Kurust rust-proofed and black Hammerite painted.
31 December 2017
Time for a wrap up for 2017.
The rear door top and bottom hinges have been refurbished, each with a new M6 x 60mm bolt, washer, hinge nut, core bush and hinge spring, all liberally bathed in grease. Hinges are bolted to body using anti-rust solution to guard against bi-metallic corrosion. The hinges themselves are not repainted, so as to retain an authentic patina.
The replacement section is now fitted and painted, with further detailed painting due in the New Year, at which stage the door skin can be re-fitted.
6 January 2018
Outside surface of safari door frame now painted and door test fitted to see if is true. There is a slight bow on the latch side, but within normal Land Rover tolerances. The door also drops slightly, but this can be rectified by adjusting the hinges at the frame.
The hole above the door that probably housed a lamp has now been covered by a metal plate bearing a (hopefully) frivolous instruction.
10 January 2018
Take advantage of a mild day by fitting the door skin to the safari door, rivetting it back onto the door lock frame and carefully folding the edges round the frame.
11 January 2018
Had intended raising the hinges slightly in order to align the door correctly. However the top hinge lies immediately below a roof bracket and cannot easily be moved. A search on the Internet only found the crackpot solution of slicing the brass hinge bush in half and inserting washers between. After further investigation decided on the crackpot approach, which in fairness worked quite well. The door is now mounted and correctly aligned with the frame, the dovetail and the striker plate.
9 May 2018
Now the weather is warming up decide to tackle the roof vent. There are three roof vents to choose from, acquired from various sources, so select the one that's least rusty and bent. The rubber gaskets for all of these are either degraded or missing, so will need to be replaced; however there is an acceptable fabric gasket (that fits between vent and roof).
Drill out one of the rivets holding the vent mechanism in place, so that the lid can be fully opened. Remove the old rubber gasket and then derust the vent using a power drill wire brush and sandpaper and then coat liberally with Kurust anti-rust treatment.
20 May 2018
Back from a nice break in Falmouth. Had painted vent before leaving, so rivet it to the roof using original gasket and apply some touch up paint.
Bolt on rear view mirror.
30 May 2018
Look again at the engine cooling problem referred to in October last year, whereby the engine gets very hot but the coolant does not appear to circulate. As the fuel gauge also did not register, the voltage stabiliser was suspected. However on adding another 10 litres of petrol the gauge does at last react, so it was just that the level was too low to register before.
Looking at the cooling issue, remove the new 82° thermostat and test it, also the original 74° version. Both operate correctly, so decide to re-fit the original. After further checks the solution becomes apparent - the choke temperature switch and engine temperature sender wires were switched. On correcting this the temperature gauge steadies mid-range and by ticking the engine over for a longer period than before the radiator warms up as the coolant circulates. Even the heater works, in its own half-hearted fashion.
Fix the front bonnet seal - this is a better version than the previous one as it is canvas based rather than being plasticky.
Update the Outstanding Jobs list with a few deletions, and the addition of an engine earthing strap, as starting appears easier when an earthing jump lead is used.
1 June 2018
Fix cover/blanking plate over the seatbox oval opening-assume these are to accommodate the hand brake of left hand drive versions.
Fix gear/transfer box information plate to bulkhead.
Attach accessory power socket to dashboard, first widening the existing hole with a newly acquired step drill bit (works surprisingly well).
Fix parcel shelf, wiper cover, end closing trim and ventilation hose.
3 June 2018
Jack up front of vehicle to more easily turn the steering. Rather a Heath Robinson arrangement, but there is no intention of actually lying underneath! Find the mid-position of travel and position the steering wheel accordingly, with central spoke pointing down. Use a length of string along the side to align the wheels straight and parallel by rotating the track rod. There is meant to be a toe-in of 1.2mm to 2.4mm, which is a small amount to adjust to. When satisfied, tighten the clamps, lower the vehicle and re-check.
Fortunately this is the only adjustment required, as the camber angle, caster angle and swivel pin inclination are fixed. My model doesn't even have a steering damper, although this should not be a problem if not off-roading.
Take the opportunity to check the front differential oil level.
7 June 2018
Now that the steering is aligned and bolted up fit the front valance. This fixes to two brackets on the front panel and two screws into the chassis - for some reason only one of these existed, so not sure how the original was secured.
In preparation for fitting the front grille, fasten wiring with a wire clip and re-make battery earth connection to frame. The grille fittings will require a bit of fiddling, and seem to require a couple of clips (347668) that would cost around £20 for the pair, which sounds a tad expensive.
Have also spent some time trying to work out a satisfactory location for the seat belt inertia reels. There are many options, one of which is easy and convenient and uses the top mounting bolt of the hard top bracket. However this is a far weaker bolt than the standard fittings and does not appeal. Another option is to fit a 7/16" bolt through the hood stick tube and fit an angle bracket to the top. This is another idea seen on the web,but in my case the unit is fouled by the seat back. More thinking required.
10 June 2018
Steering wheel now fitted, torqued up and tab washered.
Front grille fitted using a cable tie each side, which is fairly unobtrusive and very inexpensive.
Use a steel plate found on eBay to fit the passenger seat belt inertia reel, bolting it via a bracket to the hood stick fitting. The seat now just clears it when closing. Fit top and lower fittings. This just leaves the buckle strap, which is of the solid type and is not yet optimally positioned.
11 June 2018
Bolt on the passenger seat belt stalk and confirm its safe operation using an unsuspecting crash test dummy.
17 June 2018
The original idea was to drive the vehicle onto the road and turn it round, to make it easier to fit the driver's side door, trim and mud flaps. In the event, the brakes had deteriorated during the winter lay-up to the extent that they need to be attended to first.
The front number plate is now bolted onto the top of the bumper and the driver's side wing mirror attached.
More progress was achieved by Linda as two of the clean wheels are now painted in smooth cream Hammerite paint.
19 June 2018
Take the two painted wheels and two tyres to Henstridge Tyre and Batteries where the friendly patron combines them for me. Fit them to passenger side - a big improvement.
20 June 2018
Remove the rust and clean up the remaining two wheels. One of them has two dents on the rim, which is probably not a problem but will get them checked out before painting them up.
23 June 2018
Took the damaged wheel to Henstridge Tyres yesterday and they not only advised that the dents were not significant but also substantially straightened them. Linda finishes Hammerite painting them this morning.
The vehicle needs to be turned round to more easily attach the driver's door, seat belt and ancillary fittings. Manage to move onto the drive, but although tick over is fine there is no power at higher revs, so with some difficulty return it to its original position.
25 June 2018
Take second pair of painted wheels to Henstridge Tyres, where Bill fits and balances them.
Fit fuel filler pipe cover plate in tub.
26 June 2018
Fit second pair of wheels to car and photograph all 4 original wheels for eBay.
Fit passenger side rear light trim in tub - the tub seat was dented at this point so use the jack and a length of wood underneath to push it back flush.
27 June 2018
Quick session to fit rear light cover inside driver side of rear tub.
2 July 2018
Add oil to air filter oil bath.
Fit tub strengthening bracket for spare wheel mount. This first requires angle grinding one of the existing bolts off and getting underneath the vehicle to fit the lower two bolts.
5 July 2018
Decide to smarten up the spare wheel, so clean with wire brush and steel wool so that Linda can apply two coats of Hammerite cream paint to each side.
Also remove loose rust from lower seat belt anchor brackets, apply coats of Hammerite anti-rust and black paint.
Finally trim the rear door floor seal until the door shuts snugly and then bolt it down under the edge of floor base.
9 July 2018
Stable mat arrived on Saturday, so trim it to fit onto tub floor. Re-fit refurbished spare wheel.
10 July 2018
Trim second half of stable mat to fit passenger footwell - there should be enough for both footwells, so that was £32 well spent.
12 July 2018
Turn attention to the driver's window. The sliding window latch is broken, so drill out the securing rivets and replace the unit. The lower window section has rust marks, so use wire brush and steel wool to clean it up and apply Kurust anti-rust treatment.
On the passenger door, drill two holes in the frame and bolt on an interior door grab handle.
13 July 2018
Had tried last month to turn the vehicle around, to be able to more easily work on the driver's side. This had failed because the engine lost power when running faster than tick over. Ignition timing had seemed the likely cause, as most components have been refurbished or replaced. Also, as no timing marks exist, accurate timing had been difficult. The distributor was therefore slackened off, current position marked, and the unit rotated a few degrees clockwise while the engine was running until it sounded more robust at speed. Rather a rudimentary process but it worked well enough for the vehicle to be driven out in the road and turned round. This was its first road outing under its own power for over a decade, so quite a milestone. Driving further than a mile will be a better milestone.
Linda paints the lower edge of the rust-treated window frame.
Test fit the driver's door. Like the other side, it will take a bit of fettling as the rubber seal appears too thick for the door to close flush. That's a job for another day. Or two.
15 July 2018
Trim remaining stable mat to fit driver's floor.
Bolt window panel onto driver's door and adjust hinges, seals and door catch until the door shuts cleanly.
19 July 2018
Driver's door stay now fitted, as is the lower sill and the front and rear mud flaps on the driver's side.
21 July 2018
Install driver's inertia seat belt, along the same lines as the passenger side.
Bolt cubby box to the seat base plate, so that the two can removed easily for access.
Finally clip rubber seals to bonnet lid, to reduce the ingress of rain through the (larger than ideal) gap.
22 July 2018
Linda & I repair to the garage armed with soapy water and microfibre cloths. The vehicle is now as clean as it will ever be, both inside and out, and the windows look particularly impressive cleared of their grime from years of abuse.
The Outstanding Tasks list is now much diminished - seal those windows that have perished rubber surrounds, tidy up the rear 'seating' area, ensure everything is lubricated, check all bolts, fit the wiper blades and then carry out a test drive.
23 July 2018
Fit both wiper blades today. This is not as simple as it should be, as the spindles are the older rounded profile with no flat. Some original adaptors are still available for a price but most adaptors are the newer versions like mine. Decide to drill these out to fit, and then drill a small hole in each spindle for the adaptor grub screw to engage into.
26 July 2018
Outstanding lubrication now complete, apart from the transfer box as the filler/level plug is rounded and immovable and will need attention by the garage. No problems with the front and rear prop shafts, the steering box and the front wheel swivel housings.
Take a drive around the block to check that the speedo works and the gears operate. All appears OK apart from the transfer box, as it is not possible to engage high range. Taking a look later it appears that the transfer lever is incorrectly located, as its lower bracket should be on the engine side of the lug. This will require another foray underneath the vehicle to access what appear to be two slightly awkward bolts.
27 July 2018
Reposition the Transfer Lever mounting bracket, so that it is now on the engine side of the lug. This was the cause of the problem, as the lever now engages the High range as it should. Replace the driver's floor panel and mat and then go for a spin around the block.
In the afternoon pop round to O&O Engineering and have a chat with Richard Moore, the result of which is that we are booked in on August 20th for an MOT style safety check, plus a few other bits and bobs that would benefit from a professional opinion.
29 July 2018
A welcome wet and blowy day to break the long hot spell, and when better to seal some window frames. Use AquaKing MS sealer for the job, a product designed for sealing aquaria and fish ponds. It seems ideal as it's easy to apply using a mastic gun and should cure within 24 hours. It's now in the driver's window channel and the rear door window.